Genuine Relics of Scooters Past

A few years ago Monster Scooter Parts bought out the last remaining warehouse stock of spare parts from a formerly well known but now defunct scooter company. Before the container truck rolled up to our door, we didn't know exactly what we were buying, just that what we were buying was the last of it. It was like buying a big truckload of scooter history.

Included in that grab-bag collection of shipping crates were boxes and boxes of safety equipment; gobs of gloves, heaps of helmets, and an utterly copious quantity of Pryme™ Protective Gear elbow and knee guards. These were the old hard cap, BMX style that was marketed to dirt bikers, skateboarders, scooterists, and even break dancers(!) back in the day. These guards are now real treasures; genuine relics of the Polyester Age, and they may be the very last unsold and unused examples of a now discontinued line of Pryme™ Protective Gear elbow and knee guards. When they are all gone they will be gone forever.

These are the all black design and features the hard elbow or knee cap protector, Velcro™ straps, and that cool Pryme™ skull logo. These are still available in the larger sizes, and they will fit most teenagers and adults.

Since then, Monster Scooter Parts has quadrupled in size, and has moved the warehouse 2000 miles from its former location. And we continue to grow as the global leader in the scooter parts trade. We now need the warehouse space more than we need these semi-antique knee guards. But the bad news for us is the good news for the recreational scooterist. Monster Scooter Parts has cut the price down to "almost free" in order to get them out the door.

It should be noted that these elbow and knee guards are unworn and unused, but they have been sitting in various open warehouse bins for a decade or more. They are in perfect condition, but they may have collected a bit of dust on them over the years. We guarantee them as perfect, just not perfectly clean.

The days of break dancing (i.e., spinning around on your head and flopping about like a freshly hooked flounder on a fishing pier) may be safely consigned to the garbage bin of ancient history, but recreational scootering has never been more popular. Whether you get your kicks on a kick scooter or on a BMX dirt track, a pair of these brand-new-but-old elbow and knee guards from Monster Scooter Parts may just be the perfect accouterments to your style.

www.monsterscooterparts.com/

Changing a Scooter Wheel Bearing

Stop and Get Your (Scooter) Bearings
One category of scooter parts that almost flies off of the Monster Scooter Parts warehouse shelves is the humble scooter bearing in all of its size variations. Just about anything with "scooter" in its name will roll on bearings, and almost anything that rolls on those bearings will need new ones sooner or later. We have scooter wheel bearings for everything from kids' kick scooters and bearings for recreational scooters to bearings for motor scooters. Somewhere in the middle are our bearings for mobility scooters and power chairs. Most of these are (other than size) functionally identical, and the same size scooter wheel bearing might be found on the front wheel of a little stand-up electric scooter, or the caster assembly of a heavy duty 6-wheel electric power wheelchair.

Changing a scooter bearing does not have to be an intimidating experience, and anyone with a rubber mallet, two old wrench sockets, and a few minutes time can do it.

Removing & Installing Scooter Wheel Bearings
A well-made, correctly assembled, wheel hub and wheel bearing assembly on anything larger than a skateboard should be a little more than just a snug fit. The perfect fit would be tight enough to keep from coming apart at inopportune times, yet not so jammed together that it takes a chisel or sledge hammer to separate the two parts.

Lubrication
Often a little common household penetrating oil applied to the seam between the hub and the bearing case will (if allowed to sit for a bit) make life a lot easier for anyone trying to force a worn old bearing from its accustomed home. When inserting a new scooter bearing, a little white lithium grease on the outer case will help slide a new scooter wheel bearing into place. The emphasis here is on little; almost any more than a thin film is superfluous and will be scraped off by the tight fit.

The Laws of Physics
Heat expands matter and cold contracts. We all learned this in Junior High School science class. So if you stick your bearings in the freezer for an hour or so, they will shrink just a tiny bit. If practical, you can warm up the wheel hub in hot water for a while. If the law of physics take its course, your scooter bearing will be a tad smaller in circumference, and your wheel hub just a smidgen larger than they were at room temperature. Don't expect a drop-in fit. The idea is to make it a little easier to persuade your scooter wheel bearings to move in or out.

One caveat here; do not be tempted to break out the propane torch! The intense heat of the flame will probably damage any plastic or rubber on the wheel or caster assembly. In addition, sudden intense heat will stress and weaken the metal. If you absolutely must heat the hub in record time, use an electric blow dryer, but don't tell anyone that I told you.

Brute Force
Nothing short of brute force is going to move a rusted, damaged, or deformed bearing; and a wheel bearing that is only finger-tight won't stay in place doing its job for long. Either way you are going to need a bit of mechanical force to persuade any proper fitting scooter wheel bearings in or out of a wheel hub.

The proper tool for the job is an arbor press, a device found in almost every well-equipped mechanic's machine shop. But if you are not a professional mechanic or own a well-equipped machine shop you will need the old tried & true rubber mallet method.

The Civilized Method
So you have your cold or oil-soaked scooter bearing and a hot hub. How do you move one through or into the other? Brute force again by way of a rubber or wooden mallet, but applied scientifically. Here is where the old wrench sockets come handy. You will need one socket a bit larger than the diameter of the bearing, and another socket that is slightly smaller. If your bearing is an externally nominal 22mm, you will want a 3/4" and a 1" or larger socket. Whatever the size; one just under and one over the bearing's external measurement.

A. You will need a steady flat place for this. A big wood plank or block on your garage floor is perfect for this operation. Place the larger socket upright on the block and center the wheel hub balanced on the socket.

B. Put the smaller socket on the bearing.

C. Smack small socket with mallet.

D. Wash, rinse, and repeat as necessary.

This method is basically the same whether you are removing an old bearing or inserting a new one. The large socket supports the hub without getting in the way of the bearing. The small socket pushes the bearing in or out.

And one more caveat here; you might accomplish this by chocking the hub into a vise and then going at it with a hammer and big brass drift punch. Chances are you will end up damaging either the hub, the bearing, your knuckles, or possibly two out of three or all the above. In that case, you will need a new set of scooter wheel bearings and a whole new hub. Don't worry, Monster Scooter Parts has them.

www.monsterscooterparts.com/

Knee Deep in Currie

Monster Scooter Parts has been filling the warehouse shelves with a huge number of OEM replacement e-bike and electric scooter parts for all of those Currie Technologies brands like eZip and IZIP. We have also been updating our lists of spare GT, Mongoose, and Schwinn scooter parts. Even though these last three brands have been out of production now for a few years, there are enough of them out there still running to warrant us maintaining an astonishing range of OEM spare parts. Perhaps that is a testament to the quality of their build; all those discontinued models still out there years after their production runs have ended.

We have recently acquired a massive new warehouse and are quickly filling it up with batteries, chargers, tubes, and tires, and just about every other component of any eZip and IZIP electric scooter or bicycle. If it is a part for any Currie Technologies electric vehicle, Monster Scooter Parts is going to have it. That is a lot of Currie; that is a lot of parts.

Among the myriad of new eZip and IZIP parts in our inventory is this little curiosity; a set of two wheel bearing caps for those big direct drive electric scooters like the superlative eZip E-1000, IZIP I-1000, and Schwinn S1000.

And how about this jewel, the Deck with Kicktail for the eZip 4.5 electric scooter. In a warehouse of inner tubes and battery chargers, this colorful beauty really stands out. The eZip designers really did a fine job with the graphics on this one.

When I was a kid, I would delight in visiting my cousins in South Carolina and riding around on their horses. For some time afterward I associated "currie" with what you did to a horse's fur after the day's riding was over. A few years later on a visit to Germany I learned that currie was a pungent and golden-yellow spice that the locals liberally dumped onto their knockwursts after giving them a thick coat of catsup. (Try it some time, it's delicious.) With the growing popularity of South Asian restaurants and cuisine, "currie" took on an even different connotation; that of a succulent melange of meats and veggies stewed together into a hot and spicy concoction best served over a bed of rice.

Today "currie" means Currie Technologies, the parent company that produces some of the best-known electric scooters and e-bikes ever made.

So even though Monster Scooter Parts can't help you brush your horse, spice up your otherwise ho-hum hotdog, or prepare a toothsome gastronomic stew of epicurean proportions, we can help you keep your Currie Technologies made electric scooter or e-bike on the road with almost every eZip, IZIP, GT, Mongoose, or Schwinn scooter part that there ever was.

And now I'm hungry.

www.monsterscooterparts.com/

Hey, Why Didn't I Think of That!

Monster Scooter Parts sells A LOT of scooter parts, hence our company name. As a recognized global leader in the replacement parts industry, our inventory of scooter goodies (from the common to the rare & esoteric) continues to expand like mushrooms in a well-manured field, so does our need for additional warehouse space to hold it all. We are constantly finding new items to offer our customers; everything from a 384-3M/12 Drive Belt for the Pulse Charger to the ever-so-popular GS Moon Scooter Pull Start for all of those 2-stroke scooter and pocket bike engines out there. If it is a scooter part, then Monster Scooter Parts will either stock it or we will do our best to find it for you.

But every once in a while we find some little known item that is so useful and practical, so unique or novel, or perhaps just such a magnificent a piece of modern engineering that we all pass it around in unabashed admiration, all the while exclaiming a collective; "hey, why didn't I think of that!" The latest example of this stop-you-in-your-tracks greatness in gadgetry to join our inventory is the Alvey XLR USB Charging Adapter, a simple but infinitely functional connector that allows the user to operate or recharge their USB device by way of their scooter's 12 or 24 volt electrical system.

What makes the Alvey XLR USB Charging Adapter so special is that it was designed especially for use with the scooter's battery charger system. The male XLR connector on one end plugs directly into the scooter's charging port, while the female USB port (the other end) accepts the standard USB male connectors found on your mobile device's cable. USB-ported electronics have been on the market for some time now, as well as XLR connector hardware; however this is a brand-new, innovative product that did not exist for the scooter user until now.

No one can deny that we all live in an electronically connected world. How many of us today have become virtually dependant on our mobile phones, our GPS units, iPods and other MP3 players, as well as a myriad of other USB-ported digital electronics? However only a very few currently marketed electric recreational scooters such as the Razor iMod offer a wired-in connection. To this writer's knowledge, no currently produced mobility scooter or power chair offers a 12 - 24 volt XLR to USB charging and playing system as original factory equipment.

Simple in design and extraordinarily easy to use, the Alvey XLR USB Charging Adapter can both provide the electric power to operate or recharge those ubiquitous devices that have become a necessity in today's hooked-up, wired-in society. One caveat though; because the Alvey XLR USB Charging Adapter uses the scooter's female XLR battery charger port, it can only be used when a scooter or power chair is in its stationary "recharge" mode.

All in all, the Alvey XLR USB Charging Adapter is a product whose time has certainly come. Short of splicing and jury-rigging a home-built male XLR to female USB port system for your recreational scooter or power mobility chair, this clever adapter is just the ticket to staying connected. It may be premature to declare the Alvey XLR USB Charging Adapter as the Tech Marvel of the Decade, but it just may get the Monster Scooter Parts award for Most Useful Little Item of the Year.

www.monsterscooterparts.com/

Don't Overcharge Those Scooter Batteries!

Modern scooter batteries are designed to be as maintenance-free as possible, and the days of grandpa topping off the battery acid level with distilled water has been relegated to the proverbial dustbin of history. What with Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM), GEL, and Sealed Lead Acid (SLA) designs; the proper care and feeding of your scooter's electrical system has been rendered about as trouble-free as it can get. However --batteries being batteries-- even these modern marvels of stored up go-juice require frequent recharging. When performed correctly (and as soon as possible after using the scooter), charging a set of scooter batteries is about as complicated as plugging in the right amperage trickle charger with automatic cut-off and disconnecting it at the end of its proper recharge cycle. However it may be nearly impossible to fully charge an old battery that is nearing the end of its usable lifespan, or perhaps has seen too many seasonal extremes of hot summers and cold winters. It may be tempting to try and force a charge that the marginal battery doesn't want to take, but this is a self-defeating and often a dangerous thing to do. An inherent issue with almost any type of rechargeable battery, whether it sparks your Jazzy, your Vespa, your car or your MP3 player, is the problem of overcharging. Too much charge can cause heat and pressure to build up to inside of the battery until it deforms the exterior case. Automotive and marine batteries --which are in fact just larger versions of scooter batteries -- have been known to burst after being grossly overcharged. Although I wonder if the tales of overcharged iPods and mobile phones causing house fires are more urban myth than fact; even these small lithium-ion examples might reach combustion temperature under the right circumstances. There are several ways your battery may try to tell you that it has been overcharged. Depending on your scooter model, very often the batteries themselves are hidden away under decks and panels, so it is a good idea to visually inspect them at the time of every recharge session. If your scooter battery is exhibiting any of these four symptoms, overcharging is probably the culprit.

• Won't Hold a Charge
  Overcharging a battery will degrade the lead plates between the cells, causing the electrolytes to evaporate, reducing its ability to hold the charge. Reduced electrolytes further increase the heat inside of the battery, which boils off even more electrolytes in a vicious cycle ad infinitum.
• Overheats
  As the lead plates degrade from the overcharging process, internal electrical resistance increases. This resistance is felt as excessive heat on the batteries' plastic case. This increase in heat further evaporates the electrolytes, causing even more destruction to the cells.
• Leaks & Residue
  Scooter batteries are supposed to be fully sealed and all but leak proof. The heat and pressure from overcharging can cause the outer case to crack and leak acid. Often corrosive "salts" are visible around the seams.
• Warped, Swollen, & Busted
  The most obvious sign of severe overcharging is a battery's case that has been warped, rounded, bloated or bulging. Excess heat and pressure inside of the battery can eventually split the case wide open, spilling acid. In extreme cases, a single spark from a bad electrical connection or even static electricity can ignite the explosive gas and spoil your whole day.

The best charge for almost any battery is a slow trickle charge which cuts off automatically when the desired charge is reached. On the other hand, the worst charge for a scooter battery is a boost or jump from one of those high-amp automotive chargers. A boost charge is far too "hot" for the relative low-amp batteries found on most small scooters, and will probably damage the batteries as much as rejuvenate their power. It cannot be stressed enough that getting a good scooter battery recharge starts with having the correct battery charger for your scooter. If in doubt, read your ownwer's manual. www.monsterscooterparts.com/

Parts for Scooter Performance - Roller Weights

Parts for Scooter Performance - Roller Weights If you are considering new parts for scooter high-performance, then upgrade your scooter parts 'must-have list' with a set of roller weights tailored to your riding needs. A set of new weights is an inexpensive addition that will enhance your scooter's acceleration and speed performance. Usually one of the easiest modifications that a scooter owner can do, a pack of six of these little rollers will make a big difference on how your scooter behaves in traffic. Most modern motor scooters use the Continuously Variable Transmission (CVT) system that provides the smooth transmission gearing in the popular twist & go style of scooters. Roller weights are an essential part of the CVT variator, using centrifugal force to push outward and change the gear ratio. A lighter roller will require higher RPMs (and create more rapid acceleration) but will cut down the top speed. This may be preferable for urban stop and go riding where acceleration speed is of more concern than overall highway speed. A heavier set of rollers will do the opposite; the lower engine RPMs needed to push the weights means a smoother, if less rapid acceleration. However the same physics involved will generate a higher highway speed. Think of the lighter weights for the city streets and the heavier ones for the open road; helping to make it sort of a 'town or county' decision that is best suited to the rider's personal requirements. Although the weight of the rollers can be changed to achieve the desired performance, the external size must remain the same as that installed at the factory. Each CVT variator is designed to use a single roller size, with different weights being the only adjustment. Roller weights are identified by their external dimensions in millimeters, and their weight in grams. As an example an 19x17-11 roller is 19 millimeters in diameter, 17 millimeters in width, and weighs 12 grams. Whether your choice is for a heavier or a lighter set of roller weights, try getting the very best quality weights available. Prima brand standard roller weights and Dr. Pulley sliding roller weights are two of the highest rated scooter parts brands currently available, and either will do an exceptional job. Something as simple as these aftermarket parts for scooter owners to install are an inexpensive and positive upgrade to any scooter's CTV unit. For more information on roller weights, or any other parts for scooter performance, visit the experts at Monster Scooter Parts. Article Source: EzineArticles.com

Recycle that scooter battery!

Battery Disposal and Recycling

Monster Scooter Parts cannot over-state the vital importance of recycling your old scooter batteries. Perhaps it is an unfortunate drawback of living in our modern technology-driven society, but today every one of us generates more and more hazardous waste. Even the small AAA and button-batteries found in hearing aids and personal electronics like television remote controls add to an ever-increasing mountain of toxic trash. The average sealed lead acid (SLA) scooter battery weighs about 9.3 pounds; other than the plastic case, most of that weight is in the form of lead "cells" and sulfuric acid. In order to prevent these very toxic items from polluting the environment, it is now required by law to recycle your batteries. Beginning in 1996 with the Mercury-Containing and Rechargeable Battery Management Act (Public law 104-142), and further addressed by numerous laws in almost every US state and Canadian province, strict regulations govern the disposal of all battery types. The good news is that 97% of all old batteries are turned into new batteries, and this helps to keep the cost of new scooter batteries down. Instead of allowing these hazardous materials to end up in the landfill --where the toxic soup of mercury, lead, and sulferic acid will eventually leak into your community's water supply-- proper battery disposal is essential. Many areas (but unfortunately not all) have a local or municipal recycling center that will accept used batteries; however this is not always convenient for the user. Recycling Batteries at Monster Scooter Parts: Monster Scooter Parts will accept used SLA scooter batteries from our customers as long as they are correctly packaged. The best container to use to ship your old recyclable batteries is the same shipping box that you recieved with your new batteries. You can even pre-pay the return shipping when you purchase your new batteries. Additionally, we strongly recommend using the USPS Priority Flat Rate Box shipping method, as it is in our experience, the safest, most efficient, and cost effective way to send batteries. Packaging Instructions:

• Step 1: Carefully pack the batteries tightly and securely to prevent shifting inside the box.
• Step 2: Seal the box securely.
• Step 3: Label the outside of the box: "Non-Spillable Battery".
• Step 4: Ship the properly packaged and labeled batteries to our recycler's address below:

Monster Scooter Parts ATTN: Battery Recycling 26262 Three Notch Road Unit 24 Mechanicsville, MD 20659 www.monsterscooterparts.com/