- Won't Hold a Charge
Overcharging a battery will degrade the lead plates between the cells, causing the electrolytes to evaporate, reducing its ability to hold the charge. Reduced electrolytes further increase the heat inside of the battery, which boils off even more electrolytes in a vicious cycle ad infinitum. - Overheats
As the lead plates degrade from the overcharging process, internal electrical resistance increases. This resistance is felt as excessive heat on the batteries' plastic case. This increase in heat further evaporates the electrolytes, causing even more destruction to the cells. - Leaks & Residue
Scooter batteries are supposed to be fully sealed and all but leak proof. The heat and pressure from overcharging can cause the outer case to crack and leak acid. Often corrosive "salts" are visible around the seams. - Warped, Swollen, & Busted
The most obvious sign of severe overcharging is a battery's case that has been warped, rounded, bloated or bulging. Excess heat and pressure inside of the battery can eventually split the case wide open, spilling acid. In extreme cases, a single spark from a bad electrical connection or even static electricity can ignite the explosive gas and spoil your whole day.
Tuesday, September 20, 2011
Don't Overcharge Those Scooter Batteries!
Modern scooter batteries are designed to be as maintenance-free as possible, and the days of grandpa topping off the battery acid level with distilled water has been relegated to the proverbial dustbin of history. What with Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM), GEL, and Sealed Lead Acid (SLA) designs; the proper care and feeding of your scooter's electrical system has been rendered about as trouble-free as it can get. However --batteries being batteries-- even these modern marvels of stored up go-juice require frequent recharging.
When performed correctly (and as soon as possible after using the scooter), charging a set of scooter batteries is about as complicated as plugging in the right amperage trickle charger with automatic cut-off and disconnecting it at the end of its proper recharge cycle. However it may be nearly impossible to fully charge an old battery that is nearing the end of its usable lifespan, or perhaps has seen too many seasonal extremes of hot summers and cold winters. It may be tempting to try and force a charge that the marginal battery doesn't want to take, but this is a self-defeating and often a dangerous thing to do.
An inherent issue with almost any type of rechargeable battery, whether it sparks your Jazzy, your Vespa, your car or your MP3 player, is the problem of overcharging. Too much charge can cause heat and pressure to build up to inside of the battery until it deforms the exterior case. Automotive and marine batteries --which are in fact just larger versions of scooter batteries -- have been known to burst after being grossly overcharged. Although I wonder if the tales of overcharged iPods and mobile phones causing house fires are more urban myth than fact; even these small lithium-ion examples might reach combustion temperature under the right circumstances.
There are several ways your battery may try to tell you that it has been overcharged. Depending on your scooter model, very often the batteries themselves are hidden away under decks and panels, so it is a good idea to visually inspect them at the time of every recharge session. If your scooter battery is exhibiting any of these four symptoms, overcharging is probably the culprit.
Thursday, March 31, 2011
Parts for Scooter Performance - Roller Weights
Parts for Scooter Performance - Roller Weights
If you are considering new parts for scooter high-performance, then upgrade your scooter parts 'must-have list' with a set of roller weights tailored to your riding needs. A set of new weights is an inexpensive addition that will enhance your scooter's acceleration and speed performance. Usually one of the easiest modifications that a scooter owner can do, a pack of six of these little rollers will make a big difference on how your scooter behaves in traffic.
Most modern motor scooters use the Continuously Variable Transmission (CVT) system that provides the smooth transmission gearing in the popular twist & go style of scooters. Roller weights are an essential part of the CVT variator, using centrifugal force to push outward and change the gear ratio. A lighter roller will require higher RPMs (and create more rapid acceleration) but will cut down the top speed. This may be preferable for urban stop and go riding where acceleration speed is of more concern than overall highway speed.
A heavier set of rollers will do the opposite; the lower engine RPMs needed to push the weights means a smoother, if less rapid acceleration. However the same physics involved will generate a higher highway speed. Think of the lighter weights for the city streets and the heavier ones for the open road; helping to make it sort of a 'town or county' decision that is best suited to the rider's personal requirements.
Although the weight of the rollers can be changed to achieve the desired performance, the external size must remain the same as that installed at the factory. Each CVT variator is designed to use a single roller size, with different weights being the only adjustment. Roller weights are identified by their external dimensions in millimeters, and their weight in grams. As an example an 19x17-11 roller is 19 millimeters in diameter, 17 millimeters in width, and weighs 12 grams.
Whether your choice is for a heavier or a lighter set of roller weights, try getting the very best quality weights available. Prima brand standard roller weights and Dr. Pulley sliding roller weights are two of the highest rated scooter parts brands currently available, and either will do an exceptional job. Something as simple as these aftermarket parts for scooter owners to install are an inexpensive and positive upgrade to any scooter's CTV unit.
For more information on roller weights, or any other parts for scooter performance, visit the experts at Monster Scooter Parts.
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
Tuesday, March 29, 2011
Recycle that scooter battery!
Battery Disposal and Recycling
Monster Scooter Parts cannot over-state the vital importance of recycling your old scooter batteries. Perhaps it is an unfortunate drawback of living in our modern technology-driven society, but today every one of us generates more and more hazardous waste. Even the small AAA and button-batteries found in hearing aids and personal electronics like television remote controls add to an ever-increasing mountain of toxic trash. The average sealed lead acid (SLA) scooter battery weighs about 9.3 pounds; other than the plastic case, most of that weight is in the form of lead "cells" and sulfuric acid. In order to prevent these very toxic items from polluting the environment, it is now required by law to recycle your batteries. Beginning in 1996 with the Mercury-Containing and Rechargeable Battery Management Act (Public law 104-142), and further addressed by numerous laws in almost every US state and Canadian province, strict regulations govern the disposal of all battery types. The good news is that 97% of all old batteries are turned into new batteries, and this helps to keep the cost of new scooter batteries down. Instead of allowing these hazardous materials to end up in the landfill --where the toxic soup of mercury, lead, and sulferic acid will eventually leak into your community's water supply-- proper battery disposal is essential. Many areas (but unfortunately not all) have a local or municipal recycling center that will accept used batteries; however this is not always convenient for the user. Recycling Batteries at Monster Scooter Parts: Monster Scooter Parts will accept used SLA scooter batteries from our customers as long as they are correctly packaged. The best container to use to ship your old recyclable batteries is the same shipping box that you recieved with your new batteries. You can even pre-pay the return shipping when you purchase your new batteries. Additionally, we strongly recommend using the USPS Priority Flat Rate Box shipping method, as it is in our experience, the safest, most efficient, and cost effective way to send batteries. Packaging Instructions:- Step 1: Carefully pack the batteries tightly and securely to prevent shifting inside the box.
- Step 2: Seal the box securely.
- Step 3: Label the outside of the box: "Non-Spillable Battery".
- Step 4: Ship the properly packaged and labeled batteries to our recycler's address below:
Thursday, March 24, 2011
Selecting a Scooter Battery
Selecting a Scooter Battery
Electric power chairs and mobility scooters have enhanced the lives of millions of people, but a mobility scooter is only as good as the scooter battery that powers it. Designed to be durable and dependable, almost any mobility scooter battery will eventually need replacement. Today, almost all electric mobility devices use a 24 volt system consisting of an electric scooter battery pack made up of two 12 volt units linked together. The differences in batteries can be attributed to two factors; composition, and amp hour ratings.
There are several terms that are generally used to designate the differences in electric scooter battery composition. These refer to the physical size and properties of the batteries themselves, and do not relate to power output or between-charge longevity. Any of these modern types will give excellent service as long as they are properly charged.
Sealed Lead Acid (SLA) Batteries
Unlike the old wet cell monsters of the past that could be "topped-off" when required, today's SLA batteries are maintenance-free, completely enclosed units where the electrolyte liquid (the battery acid) is completely sealed, which accounts for the term "sealed lead acid" as its common designation. Maintenance-free not only means no additional acid ever needs added, it also means that the electrolyte liquid cannot "boil out" or evaporate from out of the cells. The superiority of SLA batteries has long been recognized, and almost any mobility scooter battery used today is an SLA-type battery.
Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM) Batteries
With a technology originally developed for military aircraft, AGM batteries use a fiberglass like mat to hold the electrolyte in a stable and spill-proof suspension that isn't as prone to suffering low voltage when exposed to cold temperatures. An additional advantage of the AGM system is the relatively quick recharge time. This is often the best possible type of battery for most scooters; however they may be damaged by being over-charged. Being hermetically sealed units, all AGM batteries are SLA batteries, but not all SLA batteries are AGM batteries.
Gel Batteries
The electrolyte in a gel-cell battery is not liquid, but is a gelatin-like semi-solid mass. Perhaps best known for being the preferred type of motorcycle battery, the gel battery offers several advantages over their AGM counterparts for scooter and power chair users. Not containing liquid, the gel battery will continue to work perfectly even if turned completely upside down. Without liquid acid, the gel battery produces no fumes and is the safest battery type for power chairs and scooters that are used primarily indoors. Additionally, a longer lifespan can be expected from a gel-cell.
U1 Batteries
The U1 is currently the most common size of mobility scooter battery. Note that the U1 designation refers only to a common universal physical dimension; 7.71" length, 5.16" width, 7.23" in height, and can apply to SLA batteries of both gel and AGM construction. U1 power chair and electric scooter battery packs are commonly found with ratings ranging from 31 amp hour to 35 amp hour. There are also half-U1 batteries available in a variety of ratings.
Amp Hour Rating
The amp hour rating of a scooter battery is an indication of travel range and between charge longevity. A higher or lower amp hour rating will not affect the battery's lifespan, nor will it change the scooter's top speed. Any mobility scooter will operate with the same U1 battery pack as any other. Think of an amp hour rating as an indication of the time length of a usable charge, but not necessarily its strength or volume.
Some mobility battery chargers use a low voltage sensor which will not allow it to active if the voltage of the power chair battery pack is significantly below 24 volts. Attempting to use a fully charged 12 volt mobility scooter battery and a very low charge battery may not power your mobility scooter. For this reason it is very important to replace your scooter's battery pack as a single unit; that is, to change both batteries at the same time instead of only installing a single new battery harnessed up to an older one.
For more information on selecting a scooter battery, visit the mobility experts at Monster Scooter Parts.
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
Wednesday, March 16, 2011
Electric Scooters - a quick overview
Electric Scooters - a quick overview
Recreational scooters have come a long way since the 'home-made skateboard on a stick' days. Today's electric scooter parts company with its simple kick-scooter beginnings by virtue of its technological sophistication and overall quality. Gaining in popularity by the day, these little electric vehicles are no longer just kids' toys; manufacturers have recently tapped into the urban commuter market with more heavy-duty models designed for adults. In the interest of brevity, electric mobility scooters for the disabled, as well as high-watt electric street-legal motor scooters fall outside of the scope of this brief overview, although many of the same scooter parts are common to the other categories as well. Parts for scooter models are often specific to a single brand or series; however a tire, inner-tube, or scooter battery may be interchangeable across a wide range of makes. Needless to say, a scooter charger to maintain the battery output is likewise usable on a multiplicity of items.
Stand up scooters:
The traditional stand up scooter is simply a motorized development of the traditional kick scooter. Made by a number of manufacturers, and sold under a host of brand names, these are perhaps the simplest and most basic of all motorized vehicles, even while incorporating refinements such as caliper brakes and pneumatic tires. These quiet and eco-friendly little personal vehicles come in a variety of sizes; from relatively low-watt versions of the stand-up kids' scooters, to superb high watt models expressly made for the adults. Economical to operate, non-polluting and pure joy on two small wheels, the popular electric scooter can be either a great way to have fun on the suburban blacktop, or a viable transportation alternative whose time has finally come.
Sit down scooters:
The addition of a seat to the electric stand up scooter allows for both a safer, less fatiguing ride, as well as greatly increased wattage, power and speed. From the smaller children's models to full 1000 watt beauties made for grown up kids, these are distinguished by beefier motors, disc brakes, and advanced electronics. Naturally, the bigger the motor, the bigger the scooter battery. With modern AGM batteries and the right scooter charger, these quiet machines are often capable of a top speed of 15 mph depending upon the weight of the rider.
Ride-on toys:
There are two kinds of recreational scooterists; kids, and those grown ups who haven't forgotten the joys of childhood. Ride-on toys are miniature electric versions of adult recreational vehicles, and may be found in a veritable smorgasbord of models and styles, from miniature go-karts, to ATV quads, dirt bikes, and more.
The Razor Pocket Mod miniature electric scooter stands out as one of the most thoughtfully aesthetic offerings in the entire realm of mini-scooters and ride-on toys. These little electric scooters are based on the vintage Lambretta scooters of the 1950s and '60s. Praised in Newsweek, TIME and Teen Vogue, the Razor Pocket Mod is a blend of classic Italian design flair coupled with modern, eco-friendly electric power.
Electric bicycles:
Closely associated with recreational scooters, electric bikes are found all over the world as the daily transportation of choice for many people. With today's growing eco-consciousness, electric bicycles are finding new favor with both the recreational user and the urban commuter who wishes to say goodbye to the pollution belching demands of the internal combustion engine. Available in both ultra-modern designs, as well as more traditional 'cruiser' styles, these high performance electric bikes are often available with the efficient and environmentally friendly lithium-ion battery system.
An attribute common to all recreational electric scooters, is that they are all designed to be fun. Whether intended for older children or strictly as adults-only machines, an electric scooter is all about the ecstasy of movement. Unfortunately many big-box and online retailers do not offer much in the way of customer support after the sale. Parts for scooter repairs are seldom available from the scooter dealers themselves, and must be purchased through an aftermarket scooter parts company. There are currently several reputable mail-order and online scooter parts dealers to fill this necessary and growing niche market
If you have more questions about electric scooters or scooter parts in general, visit the electric scooter parts experts at Monster Scooter Parts for more information.
Article Source: Hubpages.com
Tuesday, March 15, 2011
Scooter Parts - Making Sense of Motor Scooter Tire Sizes
Scooter Parts - Making Sense of Motor Scooter Tire Sizes
Selecting the right scooter parts can often be a challenging process for the first-time motor scooter owner. Of all the parts for scooter repair or replacement, few are as initially confusing as determining the correct scooter tire size for your rims. However, once you learn the 'secret code' of tire sizing, you should have no trouble selecting the right rubber for your street-legal machine.
Most of the confusion is due to two different systems in use concurrently; the older inch-pattern, and the newer, hybrid millimeter/inch system. A classic example of an inch-pattern scooter tire size is the 3.50-10. These are still very common on vintage Italian scooters, their modern clones and look-alikes. Simply read 3.50-10 as the inch measurement of the scooter's rim; in this case, 3-1/2 inches by 10 inches. Other popular inch-pattern sizes are 3.00-10 and 3.5-8.
The newer hybrid millimeter/inch coding is where it becomes a bit complicated. This will always read as three sets of numerals separated by a slash (the millimeters) and a hyphen (the inches). A typical example is the common size 120/70-10. The numbers before the slash (in this case 120) designates the width of the tire in millimeters when mounted and inflated. These two or three digits will range from about 80 to 160.
The two digits following the slash are called the Aspect Ratio, usually between 50 and 90, and are read as a percentage. Multiply the width (the number before the slash mark) by the aspect ratio number, and the result gives the tire's height between the rim bead and the tread. For example, multiplying 120 x.70 shows this tire has a height of 84 mm. The number following the hyphen represents the inch measurement of the rim diameter.
Thus a 120/70-10 tire would be 120mm wide, 84mm from tread to rim, and 10 inches from top to bottom of the rim. Buying the best rubber scooter parts becomes really simple when you learn to read the code.
Many of the early scooters from the 1950s and '60s, and many of today's retro-styled models, sported front and rear rims of the same size. Usually in an 8 or 10 inch diameter, these were the classic 'little wheels' of the Golden Age of scooterdom. Sharing an attribute with their larger motorcycle siblings, many contemporary scooters require a wider or even larger diameter tire on the rear wheel than on the front. This is most often the case with scooters bearing larger displacement engines; the 50 and 125cc powerplants of yesterday just didn't require the same amount of rubber on the blacktop to ensure gyroscopic stability as today's 250cc maxi-scooters.
Most major scooter tire manufacturers such as Kenda and Michelin have fitment charts on their websites. Making matters simple as possible for the scooter owner; you can just search for your scooter's make and model, and then see just what rubber is made for it. Selecting the right rubber parts for scooter rims has never been so painless.
For more information on scooter tires or other scooter parts visit the scooter experts at Monster Scooter Parts.
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
Thursday, March 10, 2011
Electric Scooter Parts - Replacing a CDI Module
Electric Scooter Parts - Replacing a CDI Module
One of the most common of electric scooter parts in need of replacement, the CDI module is as essential to the scooter ignition system as the spark plug. Thought to be an invention of the brilliant Nikola Tesla, the Capacitor Discharge Ignition (CDI) is the standard system used on most of today's gas-powered motor scooters, as well as on many motorcycles, marine outboards and other small engines. A complete CDI module is made up of a transformer, the charging circuit, the rectifier, a capacitor, and the trigger circuit.
How the CDI Module Works
The transformer first raises the voltage to 400 to 600 volts. Moving along the charging circuit, the electric current charges the capacitor, with the rectifier preventing the capacitor from discharging before the ignition point. Receiving the triggering signal, the trigger circuit stops charging and allows the capacitor to discharge to the low inductance ignition coil. This increases the original 400-600 Volt capacitor discharge to as much as 40 kV at the secondary winding, jumping the spark plug gap, and igniting the gas/air mixture in the cylinder. The charging circuit is then reconnected and resumes charging the capacitor all over again.
AC or DC?
Most current scooters us an alternating current (AC) system; however the popular KYMCO scooter brand uses direct current (DC). As a result, electric scooter parts for KYMCO machines, including the CDI module, can sometimes be difficult to find.
Engine Size
It is always best to match the engine size to the CDI specifications. A CDI module made for a 50cc engine might work on a 100cc, 125cc, or 150cc engine, and some are designed to function over a range of engine sizes. Others however, will only work for a particular engine displacement. Always check the specifications to be sure of getting the correct scooter ignition parts.
2-stroke and 4-stroke Scooter Ignition
The 2-stroke and 4-stroke engines are completely different, and as a result, their engines' ignition timing is totally different as well. You cannot use a CDI made for a 2-stroker on a 4-stroke scooter. Conversely, you cannot use a 4-stroke scooter's CDI on a 2-stroke scooter.
Connectors
On many current CDIs, the connectors are integral to the unit's case, forming a plug that snaps directly on to the scooter's wiring harness. On other models, the connectors may be located on wires, allowing some leeway on exactly where the module is mounted. The skillful mechanic may shorten or lengthen these wires as necessary. The most common CDI connector style uses two plugs side by side; one 4-pin plug, and a 2-pin plug. These connectors may be square, rectangular, or simple spades.
Note: Photo illustrations of many CDI connectors can be seen at the website listed at the bottom of this article.
Unrestricted or Restricted?
An unrestricted (or racing) CDI provides the current no matter how high the engine RPMs go. As the CDI controls the spark plug, the plug will continue to fire at high RPM. For reasons that should be obvious, these CDI units are made for racing use, and are not very suitable for regular highway use. A restricted CDI module however, will stop firing once a pre-set engine RPM is attained. Without current reaching the spark plug, the engine RPMs slow to below the pre-set limit and only then will the CDI resume providing current to the plug.
When replacing a CDI module, or any other scooter ignition or electric scooter parts, it is always a good idea to reference your owner's manual. If the manual is lost or otherwise missing, many manufacturers and brands have downloadable manuals available on their websites
For more information on finding the right CDI module or other electric scooter parts, visit the scooter experts at Monster Scooter Parts.
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
Wednesday, January 19, 2011
Replacing a Scooter Charger
Replacing a Scooter Charger
Few things in life are as frustrating as a lost or damaged scooter charger when your batteries are low. The electric scooter charger is more than an accessory; it is an essential part of the machine; as vital as the gas pump is to the automobile driver. Please note that although this article is written primarily about the electric scooter battery charger units used on small recreational scooters like the various Currie, Razor, and other models; much of the information below is applicable to many electric mobility scooter models as well. The popular gasoline-powered motor scooters such as the Vespa, Honda or KYMCO types use standard motorcycle or light-duty automotive chargers with alligator clip connectors.
Every new scooter comes with an owner's manual, and the manufacturer's recommendations should always be followed. If the manual is unavailable, the next step should be an online search; many manufacturers' websites contain model specification data charts, owners' manuals and other information that can be downloaded as PDF documents. If an online search proves fruitless, there is still another method that will provide a usable "guesstimation" of just what battery charger would work best for their scooter. The three primary criteria are: connector type, voltage, and amperage.
Connectors
Perhaps the most vital yet confusing aspect of determining which electric scooter battery charger is correct for your scooter is the multiplicity of charger-to-scooter connector types. Unfortunately there has never been a single industry-wide standard to regulate the electrical connectors on scooter chargers. Until this state of affairs changes, there are at least eight styles in common use:
- 2-prong Female, not as common as the 3-prong style, this is still found on some smaller scooters
- 3-prong Female, identified by its three holes in a triangle, this is the most common connector for stand-up scooters
- Coaxial, most are 5.5mm outside diameter - 2.1mm inside diameter plug; however BladeZ scooters used a proprietary 5.5mm outside diameter - 2.5mm inside diameter plug
- XLR, very similar to the metal-shrouded connectors used in home audio and theater applications, the durable XLR connector is used many electric recreational, mobility scooters and power chairs
- 3-pin Shrouded Female (IEC C13), used primarily on electric bicycles, this is the familiar desktop computer power connector with three vertical slots
- Modified 3-pin Shrouded Female, almost identical to the IEC C13, this e-bike connector is identified by a horizontal slot above the two vertical slots
- Flat 4-pin, similar to that used for trailers, these connectors are mainly used on kids power ride-on toys (Power Wheels-type)
- Direct Connect, these are the familiar alligator clip style that attach directly to your battery terminals
- Adapters are available to match some dissimilar types of male and female connectors
- 5 - 6 Ah battery, uses a 0.4 - 1.0 Ah charger
- 7 Ah battery uses a 1.0 - 2.0 Ah charger
- 9 - 10 Ah battery uses a 1.5 - 2.0 Ah charger
- 12 Ah battery uses a 1.5 - 4.0 Ah charger
- 18 Ah battery uses a 1.5 - 5.0 Ah charger
- 31-35 Ah (or U1) battery uses a 3.0 - 8.0 Ah charger
- 50 - 55 Ah (or 22NF) battery uses a 5.0 - 8.0 Ah charger
- 75 - 110 Ah battery uses an 8.0 Ah charger
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